Peptides have become a household name, earning their mark as a staple in aesthetic medicine due to their versatility, efficacy and ability to enhance natural beauty and non-invasively impede the effects of aging. They are a favorite for stimulating collagen production, regenerating aging skin, prompting new hair growth and aiding in weight loss. Several types of peptides are available — with applications that range from topicals to oral varieties and injectables — earning it superstar status in the aesthetic toolbox.

Peptides have become a household name, earning their mark as a staple in aesthetic medicine due to their versatility, efficacy and ability to enhance natural beauty and non-invasively impede the effects of aging. They are a favorite for stimulating collagen production, regenerating aging skin, prompting new hair growth and aiding in weight loss. Several types of peptides are available — with applications that range from topicals to oral varieties and injectables — earning it superstar status in the aesthetic toolbox.

Peptides 101

Peptides are short-chain amino acids that serve as the building blocks of collagen, elastin and proteins, all fundamental elements necessary for healthy skin. According to Melinda Silva, MD, a board-certified family medicine physician who practices integrative and functional medicine in Chula Vista, Calif., peptides function as biological messengers, signaling various cellular processes, including collagen and elastin production, tissue repair and hydration. Therefore, they play a crucial role in anti-aging skin care by enhancing cellular communication and supporting skin functions. “They also accelerate wound healing and skin regeneration by signaling the body to repair damaged tissues and strengthen the skin barrier to protect against environmental stressors,” she shared.

Peptides can be added to topical formulations to allow receptor modification, activate enzyme release or regulate protein production to improve collagen production and reduce the effects of volume loss, wrinkles and skin sagging, shared Natalie M. Curcio, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Nashville, Tenn. “Various peptides, in combination with other ingredients, can help mitigate these effects.”  

While some skincare ingredients may cause irritations or sensitivities, peptides offer a gentler approach to rejuvenating the skin and hair. “They also work well when paired with known hydrators such as hyaluronic acid to support a healthy barrier function while repairing it, allowing the skin to retain moisture properly,” Dr. Curcio added.

There are three primary types of peptides to distinguish between: carrier, signal and neurotransmitter. “Carrier peptides bind to ingredients and facilitate transportation of the agent to the active site. They are synthetically engineered for cosmeceuticals designed to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in conjunction with the moisturizing vehicle,” Dr. Curcio explained.  “Signal peptides, also in cosmeceuticals, increase collagen, elastin, fibronectin, proteoglycan and glycosaminoglycan production. Neurotransmitter peptides inhibit the release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction and mimic the effects of botulinum toxin by selectively modulating SNAP-25, inducing muscle relaxation and minimization of wrinkles.”

Popular Peptides

Among the hundreds of peptides available, the top choices physicians turn to for cosmetic purposes include palmitoyl-pentapeptide, acetyl hexapeptide, GLP-1 agonists for weight loss and copper peptides for hair loss, amongst others.1

Matrixyl (palmitoyl-pentapeptide) is favored for enhancing the skin’s functionality while repairing past damage. “It is present in many products because it can help with wrinkles, pore size and certain skin conditions,” according to Dr. Curcio.

Antioxidant-rich copper peptides (GHK-Cu) are particularly beneficial for tissue repair, anti-aging, skin health and hair growth when used orally or topically.2 “GHK-Cu, which has been studied for its tissue remodeling and wound healing abilities, is widely used in skincare and hair because it regenerates the skin and boosts collagen,” Dr. DeSilva explained. The peptide improves skin tone by regulating melanin to reduce hyperpigmentation. It also reduces hair loss, with minimal side effects, since it increases vitality and produces new blood vessels in the tissue, forming new hair follicles and, consequently, new hair.3

Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide) and Snap-8 (acetyl octapeptide-3) are choice peptides for their antiwrinkle effects and serve as compliments or alternatives to traditional injectable neurotoxins,4 especially for patients who do not want to or cannot use them. Glutathione and carnosine are also common in cosmetic topicals and some oral preparations to aid in healthy skin aging.5

Other prevalent peptides that physicians turn to may include keratin peptides to support the hair and its follicles and collagen peptides to proliferate collagen formation, aiding skin health, anti-aging and bone strength and density. “There is also palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl oligopeptide and trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2, used in anti-aging cosmetics, and palmitoyl tripeptide to help with wrinkles, volume loss and skin texture,” Dr. Curcio added.

Ensuring Efficacy

While peptides offer powerful therapeutic and aesthetic benefits, Dr. DeSilva explained that examining and understanding their safety profiles is crucial due to their effects on metabolism, immune function and hormone regulation. “Improper use or dosing can lead to hormonal imbalances, insulin resistance or immune reactions. Additionally, purity and sourcing matter – peptides from unregulated sources may contain contaminants or incorrect formulations, increasing health risks,” she cautioned.

While some peptides have undergone extensive clinical trials, such as GLP-1 agonists, others lack long-term safety data and require monitoring to decrease potential risks of receptor desensitization or unintended tissue growth. “Medical supervision, individualized dosing, lab monitoring and quality control help mitigate these risks while maximizing benefits,” Dr. DeSilva advised. “Since peptides interact with biological pathways in complex ways, understanding a patient’s medical history, genetics and medication interactions is key to preventing complications.”

For most patients, peptide therapy is successful and well tolerated. However, side effects do exist, though typically mild and dependent on administration. “Topical applications can cause redness, dryness, itching or temporary hyperpigmentation, especially in sensitive skin. Oral supplementation may induce digestive discomfort or contribute to copper overload (when taking copper peptides), disrupting zinc balance and leading to fatigue or mood changes.” Injectable peptides can elicit bruising, swelling, mild headaches or, in rare cases, dizziness and low blood pressure, particularly if high doses are administered.6

It is important that patients and their prescribing physicians avoid using contaminated or degraded peptides, which can impact potency and results. “‘Dumping’ a large quantity of peptides into a cosmetic formula may reduce or kill their efficacy when they encounter other ingredients. In addition, they may not be stable due to temperature degradation, so using a carrier molecule helps stabilize them successfully,” Dr. Curcio commented.

Synergistic Solutions

Using peptides alone can provide ample benefit in some cases. For example, lip products formulated with acetyl hexapeptide-8 can reduce lip wrinkles and lines, while palmitoyl tripeptide can temporarily volumize them. However, pairing peptides with aesthetic treatments, such as microneedling and lasers, can create a synergy, further promoting collagen and elastin stimulation while enhancing peptide delivery and penetration.7 “This optimizes the peptide’s benefits and accelerates wound healing after resurfacing procedures, which sets the skin up for better collagen and elastin production and enhanced results,” Dr. Curcio explained. Using peptide-based products post-treatment as part of a consistent routine can also aid in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, skin laxity, redness, inflammation and pigmentation while improving skin moisturization and texture.

Peptides also work as adjuncts to neurotoxin and filler treatments, according to Dr. Curcio. “A good at-home peptide-inclusive skincare routine can augment the effects of Botox and filler and further improve the skin texture while decreasing wrinkles. With soft tissue fillers, many patients on peptide regimens appreciate increased volume in the dermis and additional collagen. They may also notice that their filler lasts longer.”

Dr. Curcio emphasizes that regardless of the peptide used or how it is applied, it takes time for results to appear. She advises her patients to anticipate that topically applied peptides may take up to 12 weeks to show effectiveness. “I explain to patients that patience is key, and their results depend on the regimen. With various products, sometimes more significant improvement is seen faster.” Equally important are the status of photoaging and the skin’s age. “I discuss this with my patients when they start any peptide treatment, especially topical therapies, so they have a realistic expectation in achieving their goals,” shared Dr. Curcio.

Physician Favorites

Physicians tend to favor medical- and professional-grade skincare products with peptides. Dr. Curcio highly recommends Alastin® (Galderma; Carlsbad, Calif.), a product brand formulated with a unique TriHex technology consisting of tripeptide and hexapeptide. She often recommends the brand’s Regenerating Skin Nectar to help speed up wound healing after radiofrequency microneedling and CO2 lasers, as well as the Restorative Neck Complex. “The hexapeptide (Hex-12) activates elastin production while tripeptide GHK simultaneously activates the production of metalloproteinases (MMP-2) and anti-proteases that remove damaged proteins from the ECM macromolecules while activating the synthesis of new proteins for rebuilding it,” she explained. Other peptide-based skincare lines in physicians’ offices include skinbetter science® (L’Orèal; Phoenix, Ariz.) and Ourself (Carlsbad, Calif.).

Physicians also prescribe injectable peptides for numerous reasons. “[Semaglutide] is a game-changer for postmenopausal weight loss, helping female patients shed pounds while targeting visceral fat,” remarked Dr. DeSilva. “After menopause, declining estrogen contributes to weight gain, and this shift in fat distribution increases the risk of heart disease, type-2 diabetes and cognitive decline. Semaglutide directly combats the metabolic dysfunction that often accompanies menopause, making it an essential tool in optimizing long-term health.”

Future Promise

The integration of peptides in aesthetics shows no signs of slowing down. Dr. DeSilva, who uses GHK-Cu and semaglutide herself, shared that true physician credibility with peptides comes from personal experience. “I preach the importance of optimizing health from the inside out, and by embracing cutting-edge peptides, which have been a game changer for my skin and body, I have transformed my own health while enhancing my ability to guide my patients. This journey isn’t just about looking better; it’s about living longer, stronger and healthier,” she concluded.

References:

1. He B, Wang F, Qu L. Role of peptide-cell surface interactions in cosmetic peptide application. Front Pharmacol. 2023 Nov 13;14:1267765. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2023.1267765. PMID: 38027006; PMCID: PMC10679740.

2. Pyo HK, Yoo HG, Won CH, et al. The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Arch Pharm Res. 2007;30(7):834-839. doi:10.1007/BF02978833

3. Liu T, Liu Y, Zhao X, et al. Thermodynamically stable ionic liquid microemulsions pioneer pathways for topical delivery and peptide application. Bioact Mater. 2023 Nov 1;32:502-513. doi: 10.1016/j.bioactmat.2023.10.002. PMID: 38026438; PMCID: PMC10643103.

4. Nguyen TTM, Yi E-J, Jin X, et al. Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives. Cosmetics. 2024; 11(4):118. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040118  

5. Draelos, Zoe Diana. Answering Your Questions About Cosmeceutical Peptides. Dermatology Times. 2024; 45(9):26. Available at:  https://www.dermatologytimes.com/view/answering-your-questions-about-cosmeceutical-peptides

6. Aime, Maggie. How Peptides for Weight Loss Work: What You Should Know. Health. Updated February 1, 2025. Accessed March 7, 2025. Available at: https://www.health.com/peptides-for-weight-loss-8681712#toc-risks-and-side-effects

7. Mohammed YH, Yamada M, Lin LL, et al. Microneedle enhanced delivery of cosmeceutically relevant peptides in human skin. PLoS One. 2014;9(7):e101956. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0101956